Counterfeit Rumble / Ravage ID Guide
Since the counterfeit G1 toys came out, the cassettes have been some of the hardest ones to tell apart from the originals. After all, there aren't any typos, and the alignment is very good. However, upon closer examination, there are actually a lot of tells on Rumble / Ravage. Note that most of these differences CAN NOT be used for the other two counterfeit cassette two-packs. Here's the list:
Differences That ALWAYS Work
- "Evil Decepticon" in the title is positioned too far to the left and runs into the Decepticon logo. This is the tell I recommend you use. It's very straight-forward, and it's usually visible, even in bad Ebay photos. Here's a close-up comparison:
- The screws/rivots in Rumble's arms are flat and shiny on the counterfeit, instead of dark and with a hole in the center. See title image above for an example of this. This is a great tell. I recommend using it. (Note for those trying to ID loose Rumbles that on the robot side of some real Rumbles, this piece is indeed flat, but never the cassette side.)
- The fade from black to purple in the background starts too high on the counterfeit. See the title image above.
- The Hasbro logo is too far left on the counterfeit--it goes outside the grid. Here's a close-up comparison:
- Rumble's name doesn't line up correctly with the assortment number. Basically, the end of "Rumble" should touch the edge of "7" in "5730". However, it goes further and touches the edge of "3" on the counterfeit. (Ignore this if it's the 5731/5733 assortment--that one is legit, even though the alignment is different.) Here's a close-up comparison:
- The (R) at the end of "Transformers" is too high and too far to the left on the counterfeit. See title image above. (Ignore this if it's the 5731/5733 assortment--for that one, the (R) is shifted like on the fake, though much larger.)
- The metal on Ravage is too shiny on the counterfeit. See title image above. On the original, the metal parts on Ravage are a dull color, not shiny silver. But light can play tricks in auction pictures, so this may not be the best tell to use.
- The ribbon sticker in the center of the cassette toys isn't bright enough on the counterfeit. See title image above. But again, light can play tricks in auction pictures, so this may not be the best tell to use either.
Differences That SOMETIMES Work
- If the "Transformers" logo has an "(R)" and no rubsign, it's a counterfeit. Pre-Rub Transformers almost always have a "TM". For a Pre-Rub to have a "R" is very, very rare (and likely a factory mistake). Note, however, that some counterfeit Rumble / Ravages DO have a rubsign, so this tell can't always be used.
- If there is a Frenzy cassette sticker on Rumble, then it's a counterfeit. Frenzy stickers have a blue or purple stripe instead of a red stripe. (See example image below.) Note, however, that many counterfeit Rumbles have the correct sticker, so this doesn't always works.
- If Rumble has black hips, it's probably a counterfeit. This is a tricky one. Basically, there are two versions of real Rumbles: red hips with metal toes, and black hips with black plastic toes. The red hips version is the more common version. The counterfeit only comes with black hips, so if you see a Rumble / Ravage where Rumble has black hips, then it's likely a counterfeit. But, since some black-hipped real Rumbles exist, check all the other signs as well. Here's an example of a counterfeit Rumble, which always has black hips: